The Ultimate Guide to Hiking the Jatbula Trail (2024)

Ahhhh, the Jatbula Trail. Even just saying the name brings a smile to our faces. 

Pristine waterholes. The incredible views of the craggy Arnhem Land escarpment. Ancient rock art. The Jatbula hike is truly something special and should be high on any adventurer’s bucket list. We feel pretty confident saying it’s one of the best things to do in the Northern Territory and one of the best multi-day hikes in Australia. Trust us, you’re going to love it. 

In this guide to hiking the Jatbula Trail, you’ll find all the information you need to get yourself organised and out enjoying beautiful Nitmiluk National Park. 

What is the Jatbula Trail?

The Jatbula Trail is an epic 62 km hike that traverses Nitmiluk National Park, up in the top end of Australia’s Northern Territory.

Featuring magnificent waterfalls tumbling from high quartzite cliffs, shady monsoon forests and stunning Jawoyn Aboriginal rock art, the Jatbula is one of Australia’s best hikes.

The Jatbula Trail takes you up onto the Arnhem Land Escarpment, where you set up camp each day at a spectacular (and saltwater crocodile-free) waterhole. Small numbers and a set itinerary make this more of a complete hiking ‘experience’ to be enjoyed rather than a race to the end.

Take your time and soak in the incredible Nitmiluk National Park – this is one hike that you’re going to want to draw out and savour. I call this ‘holiday hiking’ and it’s amazing. 

Jatbula Trail Overview

• Location: Nitmiluk National Park, Northern Territory
• Length: 62 kilometres
• Time: Either 5 days/4 nights or 6 days/5 nights
• Season: 1 June – 30 September
• Type: One-way
• Daily walkers: 15 people per day
• Booking Required: Yes
• Permit Cost: $140 or $175 per person (depending on how many nights you choose)
• Sleeping: Camping
• Start: Nitmiluk Visitor’s Centre at Nitmiluk – Katherine Gorge
• Finish: Leliyn/Edith Falls
• Difficulty: Moderate
• What to expect: Spectacular waterholes, few people, ancient rock art and the chance to experience an ancient Aboriginal songline

Where is the Jatbula Trail

The Jatbula Trail is located in Nitmiluk National Park in the Northern Territory. Nitmiluk National Park is located just outside of Katherine, which is 320 km south of Darwin (the capital of the Northern Territory).

We’re talking Outback territory here – where the desert meets the tropics. This part of the Northern Territory is very special; not only is it so beautiful with tons of fun things to do, but it’s also culturally significant and you can really feel the ancient history around you.  

Looking for more great Australian walks? Check out our guide on the Larapinta Trail

Culture

The cultural significance of the Jatbula Trail is one of the reasons this hike is so special. Everything about the Jatbula hike is embedded with the deep spiritual and historical connection it holds for the Jawoyn people, an Australian Aboriginal cultural group and the traditional owners of Nitmiluk National Park. 

The Jatbula Trail follows an ancient Jawoyn songline and hunting route (and we’re talking ancient – think in the area of tens of thousands of years old). By walking the trail, you follow the footsteps of generations of Jawoyn people who traditionally travelled through parts of this magnificent country.

The trail is named after Peter Jatbula, a Jawoyn elder and traditional owner who was instrumental in securing land rights for his people.  

Nitmiluk is a Jawoyn word that translates to ‘Cicada Place’. The name comes from an important dream-time story for the Jawoyn people and the area is a really important place for the Jawoyn.

It’s a culturally rich and significant area and the Jawoyn have graciously allowed the trail to be opened to public use. For this, we couldn’t be more thankful! 

The Jatbula Trail: The Experience

The Jatbula Trail is specifically designed as an experience. This means that it can be hiked in one direction only, from Nitmiluk Gorge (Katherine Gorge) to Leliyn (Edith Falls). All walkers must follow a set itinerary and camp in a designated campground each night. You cannot stay more than one night in each campground and must move on each day. 

Whilst this may sound off-putting to a lot of independent travellers (and it did for us before we did it), don’t worry about it – it really does help build the special atmosphere of the walk and we didn’t find it any hassle at all. 

You can choose to do the trail in 5 days/4 nights, or 6 days/5 nights. Whilst the hike is exactly the same with either option, in the longer version you spend a night at Sweetwater Pool Camp, whereas in the shorter version, you hike on to the end rather than camping at Sweetwater Pool. 

One of the best features? The Jatbula Trail is limited to 15 hikers a day, so you’ll never feel crowded and have plenty of space to enjoy the scenery. 

Jatbula Trail Hiking Season

The Jatbula Trail is normally hiked from 1 June to 30 September – this is due to the extreme heat and the onset of the wet season after October. Temperatures can rise to over 40 degrees Celsius from October to late November, so we think it’s a good idea to follow the recommended guidelines!

The trail can technically be walked between 1 October and 31 May, however, you must be experienced, well prepared and you will need special permission. You must apply in writing for special permission to [email protected].

Due to the unforgiving conditions and risk of flood outside the regular season, we do not recommend undertaking the Jatbulta Trail in the off-season. 

Best Time To Hike the Jatbula Trail

The best time to hike the Jatbula Trail is in June. Not only are the temperatures (relatively) cool but it’s also the start of the dry season, so the waterholes are all still very full from the previous wet season. It’s remarkable how much they dry up throughout the dry season.

Getting in early in the hiking season means the water is fresh and clean and the heat is significantly less oppressive. 

Jatbula Trail Bookings

Jatbula Trail bookings can be difficult to achieve as the hardest part of the hike is just getting a spot in the first place. 

The Jatbula Trail must be booked in advance and a note of warning here – this hike is extremely popular. Meaning, it books out very fast (when we booked in 2020 it booked out within 1 hour!). So, to get a spot, you need to be ready at the time bookings open. 

Jatbula Trail Booking System

To book a spot on the Jatbula Trail, you must book via the NT Department of Environment, Parks and Water Security’s (very clunky) online booking system. 

2024 Jatbula Trail bookings opened on February 6, 2024, at 9.00 am (ACST).

When booking, you must first register an account on the system. Once you’re registered, select the walk you want to do (in this case, the Jatbula Trail). After that, you select each campsite and how many people will stay at that camp each night.

Once you proceed to pay, wait for the confirmation email to come through – this is how you know it was successful. Make sure you get the confirmation email – we have heard many stories of false-positive bookings! 

Pro tip: if your international card gets blocked when booking things on foreign websites, try using a Wise card. It’s what we do and it’s never let us down!

Due to the popularity of the hike, many people attempt to book when the system opens in February. It is very common for the system to crash or redirect you to an irrelevant website. It can take over an hour to try to get a booking through.

We’ll be honest: it’s an incredibly frustrating and time-consuming process. All we can say is to be patient and persevere. If you’re unlikely, you can always try picking up cancellation tickets (see below).

What if you couldn’t get a ticket for the Jatbula Trail?

If you weren’t able to get a ticket for the Jatbula Trail when bookings opened, you can periodically check the booking system for cancellations. Cancellations inevitably happen and vacant spots always pop up, so if you can be flexible, this is another good way to get a spot.

There is also a useful Facebook Group for booking swaps / transfers / people looking to buy tickets from those who can no longer make the hike.

If you Have to Cancel Your Jatbula Hike

If you are not able to make the Jatbula hike, Nitmiluk National Park will refund you 50% of your ticket if you cancel with more than 30 days’ notice.

If you cancel within 30 days of when you are meant to begin, you will not receive a refund.

Hiking the Jatbula Trail in a Guided Tour Group

Of course, you can always hike the Jabtula Trail as part of a guided tour group. Hiking as part of a tour group is a very popular way of walking the track – some people do this to meet other like-minded individuals, to feel a sense of security or just because they couldn’t get tickets through the online booking system.

Just note that walking the Jatbula Trail in a group tour is much more expensive (from $1500 – $2500 per person). 

There are a few different companies offering group walks, here are a few to choose from:

• Trek Tours Australia
• Gecko Canoeing and Touring
• World Expeditions
• Australian Walking Holidays

When we hiked the trail, we shared it with a tour from Trek Tours Australia and everyone on the tour raved about the experience. The guides were also very friendly and knowledgeable. (We are not in any way affiliated with them).

the Jatbula Trail: Transportation

As the Jatbula Trail is one-way and starts at Nitmiluk Gorge and finishes at Leliyn, you need to figure out how you can start and finish in two separate locations. 

Organising your transportation for the Jatbula Trail means:

There are a few different ways to organise your transport for the Jatbula Trail. Most are pretty expensive, however, if you are adventurous, it can be much cheaper. Adventure and cheap – our favourite! 

Starting the Jatbula Hike

The Jatbula Trail starts at the Nitmiluk Visitor’s Centre at Nitmiluk Gorge, which is approximately 30 km from the town of Katherine. 

Driving To The Jatbula Trail

The easiest way to get to the Jatbula Trail is to drive your own car. Public parking is available at both ends of the trail. 

If you need to rent a car, we recommend heading over to Discover Cars for the best deals. It’s what we personally use and recommend.

Getting to the Jatbula Trail Without a Car

If you do not have your own car, the first step is to get to Katherine. Whilst Katherine has an airport, this is mostly used for smaller, regional flights. 

The closest major airport is Darwin International Airport, which has regular flights to most capital cities in Australia, as well as to some international destinations. You can look for deals on flights here.

If you fly into Darwin, you can either rent a car and drive to Katherine (312 km) or you can take a bus. There are daily services from Darwin to Katherine via Greyhound.

If you are coming from anywhere else, you can look up route options on 12Go.

Once you get to Katherine, you can get a taxi to the start of the hike at the Nitmiluk Visitor’s Centre (30 km). Alternatively, you can hitchhike (this is the adventurous and cheap part). There are usually many cars going between the two and it shouldn’t be very difficult to get a lift. 

Finishing the Jatbula Hike 

The Jatbula Trail finishes at Leliyn. Leliyn to Katherine is 63 km or approximately a 45-minute drive. Leliyn to Nitmiluk Gorge (the start of the Jatbula Trail) is 90 km or approximately a 1-hour drive.

If you have access to two vehicles, park one at each end and do shuttle runs. Easy and cheap. 

Single Vehicle

If you only have one car, there are two ways you can do this: 

• Park at Nitmiluk Visitor’s Centre, then make your way back from Leliyn when you finish the hike; or 
• Park at Leliyn and make your way to Nitmiluk Visitor’s Centre on the first day of your hike. 

Whichever you choose, be sure to tell the Nitmiluk Visitor’s Centre desk or Leliyn kiosk your name, car details and return date.

Then to get back, you have two options: a shuttle service, or hitchhiking.

Shuttle Service

There is a shuttle service that provides transport from Leliyn to either Katherine or Nitmiluk Visitor’s Centre every day. You can arrange this for either before or at the end of your hike (but as the shuttle leaves at 1.30 pm each day, if you want to leave your car at Leliyn you will need to arrange the shuttle the day before your hike starts). 

This option is pretty pricey. Leliyn to Katherine is $75 per person . However, there is a minimum car charge of $285, so if it’s only two of you, it will actually cost $142.50 each! 

You can arrange the shuttle via Gecko Canoeing and Trekking. 

Hitchhiking

Another option is to leave your car at one end and hitchhike to the other. This is what we did and it was very easy. (We’re coming back to the theme of adventurous and cheap again). 

Here’s our experience:

We left our car at the Nitmiluk Visitor’s Centre at the start of our hike with the intention of hitchhiking back at the end.

Despite the Leliyn car park being very full, it was a pretty slow start to our hitchhiking attempt. We had many cars drive right past us (some smiling, others avoiding eye contact) and it took about 20 minutes of steady traffic before we were finally picked up and dropped off at the highway.

From there it was easy cruising. At the highway, we were quickly picked up and brought to Katherine and then got a ride from Katherine directly to the Nitmiluk Visitor’s Centre (a special shout-out to Leslie for going out of his way to do this for us!). 

Honestly, I think hitchhiking is a very doable option. I mean, since you’ve been hiking (or will be starting to hike), you won’t have much on you and there’s heaps of traffic going between the two locations. Of course, it’s all up to what you’re comfortable with, but if it’s something you’d consider, I say go for it. 

Where to stay in Katherine before or after the Jatbula hike

If you want to stay in Katherine before or after the Jatbula hike, there are a few places to grab a room.

BIG4 Breeze Holiday Parks – Katherine

Almost Off Grid Tranquillity

Discovery Parks – Katherine

How Much Does it Cost to Hike the Jatbula Trail?

The fees for the Jatbula Trail changed in March 2022. It used to be a ridiculously cheap hike at $3.30 per night. 

The price you pay depends on how long you decide to be out on the trail. You can choose to hike the Jatbula Trail in either 5 days/4 nights or 6 days/5 nights. If you choose the former, under the new fee structure, your permit price is $140 per person. For the latter, it will be $175 per person. 

Considering the quality of the experience, I think this is still very good value. 

In addition to your permit fees, you will need to consider your transportation costs (see above) and your ferry across the river (see below). You will also need to bring all your own gear, fuel and food. 

Check out our Duwili Ella Guide for further hiking inspiration

What to Expect on the Jatbula Trail

Jatbula Trail: Weather

Even in the hiking season (1 June to 30 September), the weather can be pretty warm in Nikmiluk National Park and this is something you’ll definitely need to be prepared for. 

When we hiked the Jatbula Trail in June (the coolest month), we still had some days reaching 32C or 33C. It will be even hotter in August and September. Heat is always what people say they find the most challenging about the hike. Multiple people are evacuated each year due to heatstroke. 

So, you need to prepare for the heat. The best way to do this is to hike early in the morning. Luckily, most days are pretty short and only require a few hours of walking, so you will almost always finish by midday or very early afternoon. Even in the cooler months, 2.00 pm is probably the latest you’d want to be out on the trail. 

In September most people start well before sunrise to get a good start before the heat sets in.

How hard is the Jatbula Trail?

The Jatbula hike isn’t particularly challenging and anyone with a reasonable degree of fitness should be able to complete it. The first day includes some elevation gain as you climb onto the Arnhem Land escarpment, but from then on it’s pretty flat going. 

However, this is a hike where you are expected to carry all of your own gear and supplies (even in the guided options), so you will be carrying a pretty heavy pack every day. 

To assess whether you’re able to do the trail, you should be able to walk for 3-4 hours a day with a 15kg pack. 

Water

There is ample drinking water everywhere along the Jatbula Trail, so there is no need to carry large amounts of water.

Coming from the arid environment of Central Australia, we were used to water paranoia on our hikes and started by carrying many litres. By day 2 we had come to our senses and would carry approx 2 litres at a time. You’re usually only an hour or so from a water source and every night you camp at a different water hole. 

Whilst you can drink the water at each campsite, we recommend treating it in some way.

Pro tip: for treating water on all our hikes, we use a Steripen – it’s a game-changer.

food

Food-wise, you need to pack all of your food with you for the Jatbula Trail. Dehydrated meals (such as Backcountry Meals) are a good choice, if not a bit pricey. We also recommend trying instant pasta packages, couscous, and ramen for hiking meals.  

rubbish

On the Jatbula Trail, you must pack out all your own rubbish. Carry a few small bags (double bag it just in case of leaks) and carry it with you.

Pro tip: to minimise rubbish on the trail, decant as much of your food beforehand as possible. 

the Jatbula Trail: Safety

On the Jatbula Trail, there are emergency call devices at each campsite, so it’s not necessary to hike with a personal locator beacon (PLB). 

As with all hikes in Australia, you should be mindful of snakes and always carry a first-aid kit complete with a snakebite bandage. 

The biggest risk on this hike is heat, so as we’ve said, make sure you’re walking early in the day to minimise any risk. 

Travel insurance, as always, is essential. If something goes wrong, you want to be covered. Our preference is SafetyWing. Trust us, we’ve used a lot of travel insurance and they really are the best.

Ferry Across the Katherine River

The Jatbula hike begins with a “boat trip” across the Katherine River. By this, they mean a 2-3 minute shuttle across. Do not get your hopes up for any scenic cruise here! 

This ferry is $15 and must be booked in advance here. Be sure to have your permit with you as they will check and it is a condition of entry that you carry it with you at all times. 

There are two options for your boat – 7.00 am or 9.00 am.

Safety Briefing

Before you even get on the trail, you must complete a mandatory safety briefing. These are held at 8.00 am and 3.00 pm each day.

If you take the 7.00 am boat, you must attend the 3.00 pm safety briefing the previous day. If you take the 9.00 am boat, you can choose which one to attend. This is a very comprehensive briefing, going through all the information you need to ensure you’re safe on the trail. 

Then, the fun begins!

On the Trail

Jatbula Trail Day One: Nitmiluk Gorge to Biddlecombe Cascades – 8.3 km

Once you’re across the Katherine River, you’re officially on the Jatbula Trail, marked by blue triangles. 

The first 4 km is flat, easy walking and leads you to Northern Rockhole. This is a spectacular waterhole that in the early dry season has a gushing single-drop waterfall (in the later dry season it has usually slowed to a trickle, or stopped altogether). 

The waterfall is below the escarpment and can attract saltwater crocodiles during the wet season. When we walked the trail in early June 2021, the area hadn’t been surveyed yet so it was not deemed safe for swimming – another reason to make sure you pay attention in that safety briefing! 

Even if you can’t go in the water, it’s a great spot for a snack or lunch, before continuing to Biddlecombe Cascades.

After leaving Northern Rockhold, you climb up onto the Arnhem Land escarpment, where you will stay for the duration of the trail. Once you reach the top, there are some magnificent views of the park. 

You should soon approach the Biddlecombe Cascades camping area. This is a particularly lovely campground on the trail. It is large and spacious and there are plenty of flat spots that are good to set up. The campground itself is about 100 metres from the cascades. 

From the campground, you can walk to the cascades, which are fed by a permanently flowing creek that drops into a waterfall. At the top of the waterfall, there are multiple rock pools to lie in. This is an absolutely divine experience. For us, it felt like being in paradise. 

Jatbula Trail Day Two: Biddlecombe Cascades to Crystal Falls – 11 km

Day two on the Jatbula Trail has you walking through tall grass and climbing over large rocks. 

After a few hours on the trail, you’ll approach Crystal Falls. The campground is set up right on the water. There is a large main camping area, but if you keep walking there are a few more secluded spots as well. 

There are small rock pools to enjoy as well as a large, lake-like swimming hole. You can swim up the swimming hole to approach a larger waterfall and climb up onto the banks to do some exploring. 

Jatbula Trail Day Three: Crystal Falls to 17 Mile Falls – 10 km

Don’t even bother putting your hiking boots on in the morning, as day three has you crossing a river very first thing! This is where waterproof sandals come in very handy. 

The depth of the river crossing will depend on how far into the dry season it is and how good the wet season was before.

We crossed at the start of the dry season after a very generous wet season and the water came up to mid-thigh on me (but I am quite short). We have heard that by the end of the dry season, it can be as low as ankle-deep. 

After crossing and putting your boots on, you’re almost immediately treated to a spectacular view of Crystal Falls. 

At approximately the 6 km mark you reach the junction for the Amphitheatre. Take the left at the junction and head to the Amphitheatre – this is an absolute highlight of the entire trail. After going down the stairs, you’ll find spectacular rock art on the cliff walls, painted from clay pigments. There are depictions of animals and ancestors. 

Just before you reach camp at 17 Mile Falls, there is a brilliant view of the 17 Mile Falls.

A short while later, you approach the camp. The campground here is large, flat and spacious.

However, it is the waterhole that really steals the show. This was our favourite swimming spot. We managed to swim to a naturally-formed ‘seat’ at the top of the waterfall that looked out on the entire park. Nature at its best! 

Jatbula Trail Day Four: 17 Mile Falls to Sandy Camp – 16.8 km

This is the longest day on the entire Jatbula Trail, so to beat the heat, it’s best to leave early. 

After 11 km you reach the Edith River, which only very occasionally has water in it. You might be tempted to stop here for a break or a swim, but we highly recommend pushing on and instead taking a break at Channel Waterhole, which is only a short while later (and much more beautiful in our opinion). 

After a few more km you reach Sandy Camp. The darling camp of the entire trail! It feels like a tropical oasis. True to its name, there are sandy banks and the waterhole is almost a large lake. The camp is set up very well, right on the edge of the water with little stone tables constructed. 

Sandy Camp also has the honour of hosting a population of freshwater crocodiles. Don’t worry, these guys are relatively harmless. They’re very shy creatures and mostly like to be left alone. If you put your head torch on its red setting at night and shine over the water, you may be so lucky to see their eyes reflecting back.

Jatbula Trail Day Five: Sandy Camp to Sweetwater Pool – 11.1 km

After Sandy Camp, you follow the Edith River the rest of the way. There are numerous small pools and waterholes along the way. You pass through monsoon forest before reaching Sweetwater Pool. 

Sweetwater Pool is a lovely, large swimming hole (also home to a freshwater crocodile population).

Sweetwater Pool is a popular day hike from Leliyn (also known as Edith Falls), so it can be quite a shock to be around so many people after the solitude of the past few days. Most day hikers leave by 2.00 – 3.00 pm though, and then after that, you’ll be back to the small group of 15. 

For those choosing the 5-day version, you will continue to Leliyn from here and will finish the same day.

Jatbula Trail Day Six: Sweetwater Pool to Leliyn (Edith Falls) – 4.5 km 

From Sweetwater Pool, it’s a very short 4.5 km to the finish! We recommend taking a short dip at Longhole Swimming Hole before finishing. 

We also recommend walking to the upper pools of Leliyn (Edith Falls). It’s a popular spot, with a lot of people around, but once there you’ll understand why. It’s such a beautiful swimming spot. 

Tips and Tricks

• Download the maps.me map onto your phone. The trail can be hard to follow at times (especially at the start of the season). Having a downloaded map really helped us out on a few occasions! 
• Don’t miss the rock art in the amphitheatre. This really blew us away. 
• Remember to bring enough money for the kiosk at Edith Falls. Trust us, you’re going to want to buy a meal at the end. Don’t be like us and bring a ridiculously small amount of money so that you have to count your pennies just to buy a veggie burger. Epic fail on our part. 
• Bring mosquito repellent. The mozzies are pretty full-on. 
• Bring a good book and some games to play at camp. Most days finish around midday and you have plenty of downtime! 
• Always get your water from a fast-flowing source. The closer to the waterfall, the better. 
• When you’re done, be sure to take a cruise down the Katherine River. It’s pretty impressive.

What to Pack for the Jatbula Trail

Here’s our packing list, with our recommendations for specific gear.

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