The Ultimate Guide to Kel Suu Lake Kyrgyzstan (2024)

There are a lot of beautiful lakes in Kyrgyzstan, but there’s one that shines above them all: a remote, stunning, alpine lake nestled between sharp cliffs and snow-capped mountains. A lake so isolated that it takes a half-day 4×4 drive to reach and then a further 2 – 3 hour walk along a breathtaking valley.

Welcome to Kel Suu Lake. You’re going to love it. 

Kel Suu Lake and the gorgeous valley it’s a part of, the Kok Kiya Valley, is one of Kyrgyzstan’s true hidden gems. It’s hard to reach and requires effort, but as with all good things in travel, it’s worth it. 

Want to learn more? Read on for our complete guide to Kel Suu Lake and the Kok Kiya Valley. 

What is Kel Suu Lake 

At 3514m, Kel Suu Lake is a high-altitude alpine lake located in the remote Kokshaal-Too Mountains in the Tien Shan Mountain Range.

The lake was formed by an earthquake and subsequent landslide in the 1980s. A large part of the mountain actually collapsed during the earthquake, forming a natural dam over the Kurumduk River, and hence, the beautiful lake you see today. 

Because of how Kel Suu Lake was formed, the lake is surrounded by sheer cliffs reaching hundreds of metres in height. The lake stretches up to 10 km through a mountain gorge and almost reaches the Chinese border. 

As with many alpine lakes, the colour of the lake changes dramatically with the sun. When I visited, I spent an entire day there and watched it change from deep, brooding teal to brilliant turquoise.  

Oh yeah, and it’s still relatively unvisited, so when I was there, at the height of the tourist season in mid-August, I only shared it with 3 other people. Completely the opposite of the crowds at Ala Kul Lake!

It’s a special place to visit and one we highly recommend you fit into your Kyrgyzstan itinerary. 

Looking for another stunning lake in Kyrgyzstan? Check out Kol Tor Lake

When to Visit Kel Suu Lake

The best time to visit Kel Suu Lake is from mid-June to September. These months fall within Kyrgyzstan’s summer, so the days will be warmer and the nights not as cold (but still cold). 

Kel Suu is located at high altitude, so the nights can be very cold even during the summer. In fact, when I visited in August, it went below 0C on both nights! Because of this, it’s important to pack accordingly – think warm clothes and even warmer gear if you’re camping. 

If you want some tips on what to pack, check out our complete packing list for the mountains.

You could potentially visit Kel Suu in either May or October, but you would have to seek local advice in Naryn, as there may be too much snow to access the valley. 

Read 14 Awesome Things to Do in Kyrgyzstan for more epic adventures

In May, the levels of the Kurumduk River can be quite high due to snow melt, so it may be more difficult to access the lake. Again, you’re best seeking local advice in Naryn. 

It’s not advisable to visit Kel Suu during winter. During this time, the commercial yurt camps will also be gone for the winter so you’ll be on your own for accommodation, plus temperatures can go very low (-30C). If it’s winter and you want to go adventuring, you’re best off heading somewhere more accessible, like Ala Archa National Park.

Where Is Kel Suu Lake 

Kel Suu Lake is located in the Kok Kiya Valley, 160 km from the town of Naryn. Naryn is the administrative capital of Naryn Oblast in Central Kyrgyzstan and where you can base yourself to get organised for a trip to Kel Suu Lake. 

Like the ancient silk road caravanserai of Tash Rabat, Kel Suu Lake is very close to the Chinese border. Very, very close. For this reason, you have to arrange a permit in advance to go to Kel Suu. Read more on getting this permit below. 

Where to next? Read The Essential Guide to Tash Rabat Caravanserai

How to Get to Kel Suu Lake

Getting to Kel Suu Lake requires some advance planning as there is no public transportation to the Kok Kiya Valley. For this reason, to get to Kel Suu Lake, you must either go on a tour or arrange a driver with a 4×4 car.  

Although the distance from Naryn to the Kok Kiya Valley is only 160 km, the drive takes around 4 – 5 hours because the road is in poor condition. 

The road into the Kok Kiya Valley is rough and bumpy, so a 4×4 is necessary.

How To Arrange a Driver to Kel Suu Lake

It’s easy to arrange a driver in Naryn. You can arrange a driver through the Naryn CBT, Kubat Tour or your guesthouse in Naryn. The prices are the same no matter where you organise it – 15,000 Kyrgyz som (KGS) per vehicle. 

For this price, the driver will take you to the Kok Kiya Valley, wait up to two nights and then drive you back to Naryn. You can comfortably fit 4 people in a car.

Read next: Ala Kul Lake Essential Guide

If you are travelling solo or in a smaller group and looking to share costs, it is relatively easy to find other travellers to split the car. Your best bet is to go to Naryn CBT and leave your name, travel dates and contact information on the public messageboard.

You can also leave your name and contact details with Kubat Tour and they will contact you.  I had much better success with the Naryn CBT office. 

You can also try leaving a message on the Caravanistan forum, but we haven’t met anyone yet who was successful. 

Self-Drive to Kel Suu Lake

Of course, if you have your own 4×4, you can always drive there yourself. 

Want to rent a set of wheels? Hop over to Discover Cars for the best deals – it’s what we personally use and recommend.

Visiting Kol Tor Lake as Part of a Tour

If you can’t be bothered with getting there yourself, there are numerous companies around Kyrgyzstan that go to Kel Suu as part of a tour.

Being one of the best lakes in Kyrgyzstan, it’s becoming more popular with tour groups (but still not super busy).

If you really want to splash out, there’s an epic 10-day tour of Kyrgyzstan that goes to Kel Suu Lake and some other amazing Kyrgyzstan highlights.

permits For Kel Suu Lake 

Due to its proximity to the Chinese border, you must obtain a permit to visit Kel Suu Lake and the Kok Kiya Valley. Unlike other parts of the country (i.e., Lenin Peak), these permits are checked.

En route, you will pass through a checkpoint, where you must show your passport and permit.

How to Get a Permit For Kel Suu Lake

The permits are relatively easy to acquire. The easiest, and cheapest, way to arrange a permit is to contact the Naryn CBT office at least 7 days in advance.

The manager, Gulira, will ask you to send all the relevant details (i.e., what type of permit you want and when you want it to start) and a photo of your passport to her on WhatsApp and make the payment in Euros only via PayPal. 

I know, it very much sounds like a scam and when I did this, I was worried that I had paid someone to steal my identity. But this is Central Asia, and things work differently, and this is in fact how it is done. 

Even if you do the above steps 7 days in advance, it’s likely your permit won’t be ready on the day you arrive in Naryn. Despite ordering mine 2 weeks in advance, I still had to wait a day for ‘extra processing’. Just keep this in mind when budgeting your time. 

Although the Naryn CBT website says that pick-up for multi-zone permits is in Bishkek, you can pick it up in Naryn (that’s what I did). 

If you haven’t arranged a permit in advance and still want to visit Kel Suu, then you can pay extra for urgent processing. This costs 2,000 KGS for a single zone permit and 3,000 KGS and these can be arranged in 2 business days. 

Heading to Tajikistan? Be sure to visit Iskanderkul Lake

What to Expect at Kel Suu Lake

• There is no phone reception in the Kok Kiya Valley or Kel Suu, so make sure you have downloaded any maps that you may need. 
• Besides the few yurt camps in the valley, there are no facilities. Bring enough water and any other supplies you may need. We always recommend travelling with a Steripen so you have access to clean water anytime. 
• Even if you’re staying in a yurt camp, visiting the Kok Kiya Valley and Kel Suu Lake is a wilderness experience. There are no showers at the yurt camps, so be prepared to rough it for a couple of days.
• The weather can change super rapidly, so be prepared. When I was there I experienced rain, snow and heat. Layer up! See our packing list for ideas on what to bring.

Things to Do at Kel Suu Lake

Kel Suu Lake and the Kok Kiya Valley are both fantastic places to spend some time in Kyrgyzstan’s beautiful nature.

There are a few things to do at Kel Suu Lake to keep you busy for a day or two. 

Read about Ala Archa National Park for more time in Kyrgyzstan’s mountains

Kel Suu Hiking: Walk the Kok Kiya Valley to Kel Suu Lake 

The primary activity at Kel Suu Lake is to, well, walk to the lake! Kel Suu Lake is what you came to see after all, so lace up your boots for some Kel Suu hiking! 

The Kel Suu Lake hike from the Kok Kiya Valley is 7.5 km – 9 km (one-way), depending on exactly where in the valley you start, with an elevation gain of 300m. It should take between 4 – 6 hours roundtrip. 

The route for the Kel Suu hike is very clearly defined, but in case you want a map, there is an online map on maps.me that you can download in advance. 

It is not a difficult hike to Kel Suu Lake. As you walk through the Kok Kiya Valley, the terrain is mostly flat, with a short climb at the end. 

The walk through the valley itself is a highlight as the scenery is absolutely fabulous. You’ll likely come across horses and yaks as well. 

One of the best parts of Kel Suu hiking is that the view of the lake is obstructed until the very last minute. You cannot see the Kel Suu Lake until you climb over the last ridge and then, bam! – the lake is spread before you in all its turquoise glory. 

The Best Hike in Kyrgyzstan: The Ak Suu Traverse

Relax at Kel Suu Lake 

If the sun is out, Kel Suu Lake makes a glorious place to spend a day.

The area around the lake is very compact, meaning there are not a lot of places to go adventuring.

But it is a great place to pack a picnic blanket, park yourself and chill out at this stunning lake in Kyrgyzstan. Bring a book or just contemplate nature’s beauty. 

Boat Ride on Kel Suu Lake 

Kel Suu Lake is one of the few lakes in Kyrgyzstan where you can take a boat ride around the lake. 

There are a number of operators set up on the lakeshore offering rides on the lake. These cost around 500 – 1000 KGS depending on your bartering skills. 

The boats generally go 2 km up the lake. If you wish to go further, you can negotiate this with your captain (for a higher price of course). 

A standard 2 km ride up the lake takes around 20 minutes. 

Horse Riding at Kel Suu Lake 

Of course you can ride a horse at Kel Suu Lake! This is Kyrgyzstan after all!

Any one of the many yurt camps will rent out a horse for you to take a ride around the Kok Kiya Valley and up to Kel Suu Lake. 

Prices range from 800 – 1000 KGS per person, depending on your bartering skills. 

Want even more horse trekking in Kyrgyzstan? Be sure to visit Song Kul Lake

How Much Time Should I Spend at Kel Suu Lake?

2 nights at Kel Suu Lake is the ideal amount of time. This will allow you to spend a whole day at the lake, plus have half a day to enjoy the surrounding, and very beautiful, Kok Kiya Valley. 

Of course, if you only have 1 night, then it is still worth paying Kel Suu Lake a visit. 

Note that if you plan to visit Tash Rabat whilst in the area, you can combine both destinations into one trip. This will be more efficient than returning to Naryn in-between visits. 

Where to Stay at Kel Suu Lake

To spend the night near Kel Suu Lake, you have two options:

Stay in a Yurt

There are a number of yurt camps in the Kok Kiya Valley that you can stay at. There are roughly 4 ‘clusters’ of yurt camps, each providing a number of yurts.

Due to the isolated location, prices are slightly more expensive here than in other places in Kyrgyzstan. 

A recommended option is the Golden Moon Yurt Camp which is operated in affiliation with the Naryn CBT. It is slightly further away than the other yurt camps but has a lovely outdoor area where you can relax and look at the mountains. 

The price is around 1200 KGS per person, including breakfast. 

Due to their remote location and lack of connectivity, you often cannot book these in advance. Most people just turn up and ask for a spot.

If you’re really wanting to have something organised, speak to the Naryn CBT office about reserving a spot at the Golden Moon Yurt Camp. 

Camping In the Kok Kiya Valley

If you’re into camping, the Kok Kiya Valley is a wonderful place to camp. There is ample space and you can set yourself up in a more isolated spot, or closer to one of the yurt camps. Just be sure to speak to the people running the yurt camp to get the okay from them! 

Important: it gets very cold in the Kok Kiya Valley, so if you are camping, be prepared!

I was there in August at the height of summer and it went below 0C overnight. I woke to frost covering my tent. 

You can theoretically camp at Kel Suu Lake and I personally know someone who has. Just know that it’s even colder at the lake and can get really windy.

Due to how the lake was formed, the ground is very rocky and there are not many adequate spots for a tent. You’re best off camping in the Kok Kiya Valley and walking up to Kel Suu for a day trip. 

Where to Stay in Naryn 

You’ll most likely be spending at least a night in Naryn on either side of your Kel Suu Lake adventure. 

Fortunately, good-value accommodation options seem to be increasing in Naryn. 

Budget 

Kubat Tour Hostel

Kubat Tour Hostels is probably one of the cheapest places in town and for the price, is decent enough. The host is very friendly and speaks good English. The private rooms are tiny but comfortable. 

Rozalinda Guesthouse

Mid-range 

Guest House Tenir Too

Kezgin Guest House

Top-end

Khan Tengri Hotel 

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